Let's face it: skincare is complex, and even the most common terminology can be downright confusing! We want you to be able to make informed decisions about your skincare, and that's only possible if you understand what your dermatologist, doctor, or esthetician is saying. Bookmark this page and save it for later. Here, we'll discuss all the skincare terms you really need to know for a better understanding of skincare ingredients and concepts, the microbiome and the skin barrier, as well as skin types and common concerns.
General skin care
Pickles
Acidic describes substances with a pH of less than 7. The ideal pH for skin is slightly acidic: 4.7–5.
Alkaline
Alkaline describes substances with a pH greater than 7. If the skin is too alkaline, it can disrupt the functioning of the skin barrier and cause inflammation. Alkaline skin appears dull and dry. This can lead to wrinkles.
Aqua
Do you see "aqua" listed on the ingredients label of your skincare products? "Aqua" is the name for water in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It's used as a solvent in many skincare products.
Broad spectrum
If you see a sunscreen labeled "broad spectrum," it means it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. It's best to avoid excessive exposure to both types of radiation; that's why this type of sunscreen is recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology.
Ceramides
Ceramides are the lipids, or fats, that make up the epidermis. Ceramides help you retain moisture and maintain a healthy skin barrier. When ceramide levels decline, as often happens with age, skin can become irritated and dry.
Emollients (softening agents)
Emollients are ointments, lotions, and creams designed to soften and smooth the skin and restore the skin barrier. Skin care ingredients such as lipids, esters, oils, fatty acids, and butters are also considered emollients.
Fragrance-free
When a skincare product is fragrance-free, it means it doesn't contain any fragrances or masking scents. "Unscented" products may still contain masking agents to conceal unpleasant odors. So, if you want to avoid fragrances, buying fragrance-free products is your best bet.
Humectants (wetting agents)
Humectants are ingredients that draw moisture to the skin's surface. They are essential for keeping skin hydrated. Common humectants include glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
Hypoallergenic
Hypoallergenic describes a product that contains few allergens. Generally, hypoallergenic skincare products are less likely to cause an allergic reaction.
Lipids
Lipids are the skin's natural fats that help keep the stratum corneum intact. Ceramides, cholesterol (not to be confused with blood cholesterol), and fatty acids are all lipids essential for skin health. Many skin care products contain lipids to nourish the skin.
Non-comedogenic
Non-comedogenic is the term used to describe skincare products that are less likely to clog pores. Non-comedogenic skincare products are recommended for people with acne-prone skin.
Occlusives (closing agents)
Occlusives are ingredients that form a protective layer over the skin, helping it retain moisture and prevent transepidermal water loss. They can feel greasy or heavy. Common occlusives include petrolatum, mineral oil, waxes, and silicones.
Petrolatum
Petrolatum, also known as Vaseline, is a mixture of mineral oils and waxes used in most ointments. It is an occlusive agent that forms a protective barrier over the skin and is used to treat dry or damaged skin and rashes.
pH
pH stands for "Potential Hydrogen." The term is used to refer to how acidic or alkaline a specific substance is, including the skin. The ideal skin pH is just below 5. If the skin is too alkaline, it can disrupt the functioning of the skin barrier.
Skin barrier / Stratum Corneum
Your skin barrier, also known as the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer of your skin. It's composed of skin cells known as corneocytes. The corneocytes are held together by a thin lipid layer made up of fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. The composition of the skin barrier is often compared to a brick wall, with the cells acting as bricks and the lipid layer as the mortar. This brick wall serves to protect your body from environmental toxins, air pollution, chemicals, viruses, and bacteria that can harm you.
Learn about the stratum corneum:
SPF
SPF refers to the amount of sun energy or UV radiation required to cause a sunburn on protected skin (such as sunscreen), compared to the amount of sun energy required to cause a sunburn on unprotected skin. The higher the SPF, the greater the protection against sunburn. For example, SPF 50 offers more protection than SPF 30.
UVA rays
UVA rays are one of the two types of UV rays emitted by the sun. UVA rays account for approximately 95% of the UV radiation that reaches Earth. UVA rays have a longer wavelength than UVB rays and are associated with skin aging.
UVB rays
UVB rays are one of the two types of UV rays emitted by the sun. UVB rays have a shorter wavelength than UVA rays and are associated with skin burns.
Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide is a common ingredient in mineral sunscreens. It protects your skin from UV rays by reflecting light off the skin's surface. It occurs naturally as the mineral zincite, which is a better option for sensitive skin than other traditional sunscreen ingredients.
Skin
Skin type
Generally, skin can be classified into one of five different skin types: dry, oily, combination, sensitive, and normal. Your skin type is influenced by your genes, but it can change over time and based on environmental and lifestyle factors.
Fitzpatrick Skin Type
The Fitzpatrick Skin Type system was developed in 1975. It classifies your skin based on its pigment content. It also takes into account your skin's reaction to sun exposure. Generally, this can help predict your risk of skin cancer or sun damage. Based on the Fitzpatrick Skin Type system, you have a skin type 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6.
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation occurs when an excess of pigment causes dark spots on the skin. This is due to excess melanin, which makes certain areas of the skin appear brown, black, gray, pink, or red.
Hypopigmentation
Hypopigmentation, the opposite of hyperpigmentation, occurs when skin cells don't produce enough melanin, causing some areas of the skin to appear lighter than your normal skin tone.
Melanin
Melanin is a natural pigment responsible for your skin, hair, and eye color. More melanin means darker skin, hair, and eyes. Less melanin results in lighter skin, hair, and eyes.
Dry skin
Dry skin, one of the five main skin types, is characterized by rough patches, redness, flaking, a dull complexion, reduced elasticity, and sometimes more visible lines. Dry skin lacks the proper sebum (oil) levels and can be prone to eczema.
Oily skin
Oily skin is characterized by the presence of excess oil on the skin's surface. The skin may also have enlarged pores and blemishes, and may appear shiny. Genetics, stress, puberty, and hormonal changes, as well as heat and humidity, can all contribute to oily skin.
Combination skin
Combination skin is one of the five main skin types, characterized by the presence of both oily and dry areas. The skin is often oily on the T-zone (forehead, chin, and nose), but dry on the cheeks and other parts of the face.
Sensitive skin
If you have sensitive skin, your skin is more likely to react to new skincare products, environmental factors, and other stimuli. Sensitive skin is characterized by itching or burning, redness, and dryness.
Dehydrated skin
If your skin is dehydrated, it means it's lacking water. Dehydrated skin can look dull and dry and have an uneven skin tone. It can also be dry and have more noticeable fine lines. It's important to note that dry and dehydrated skin are often discussed as if they're the same thing, but this isn't the case. Dry skin lacks oil, while dehydrated skin lacks water.
Sensitized skin
Just like sensitive skin, sensitized skin can itch or burn and appear red or dry. But unlike sensitive skin, sensitized skin is not a skin type. Sensitized skin is a skin condition caused by triggers, such as medications, excessive UV exposure, harsh makeup or skincare products, and extreme weather.
Skin microbiome
Endolysins
Endolysins are enzymes produced by phages. They help restore the balance of the skin microbiome.
Incorporate endolysin technology into your skincare routine:
Enzymes
Enzymes are a large group of proteins produced by all living things. They act as catalysts in biological and chemical reactions.
Prebiotics
Prebiotics aren't bacteria, but compounds that promote the growth or activity of beneficial microorganisms like bacteria. One way to think of prebiotics is that they're the food that fuels your probiotics.
Probiotics
Probiotics are live bacteria and yeasts that benefit the body. Because of their health benefits, they are often referred to as "good" or "beneficial" bacteria. Probiotics are commonly found in digestive supplements, fermented foods like kimchi, sauerkraut, and yogurt, and in some skin care products.
Skin microbiome
The skin microbiome is the ecosystem of microorganisms, their genes, and the surrounding environment that lives on your skin's surface. It's home to a wide range of bacteria, mites, viruses, and fungi.
Synbiotics
Synbiotics are a blend of living microorganisms and prebiotic material designed to benefit the host's health. There are two types of synbiotics: complementary synbiotics, which combine a probiotic and a prebiotic, but work independently; and synergistic synbiotics, in which probiotics and prebiotics work together.
Eczema and dermatitis
Allergic rhinitis
Allergic rhinitis, also called seasonal allergies or hay fever, can cause watery and itchy eyes, sneezing, and a runny nose. This allergic reaction can occur in a specific season or year-round. People who suffer from hay fever have a higher risk of eczema. Histamines are compounds released by cells in response to injury or an allergic/inflammatory reaction.
Atopic dermatitis
Atopic dermatitis is the most common form of eczema and presents as itchy, flaky, and dry skin. It often begins in childhood and persists chronically throughout a person's life. Although it can occur anywhere, it's most commonly found in the crooks of the elbows or knees.
Atopic triad
The atopic triad describes the tendency of eczema, asthma, and allergies to occur together. The development of the atopic triad usually begins with eczema, followed by food allergies, followed by asthma, and finally hay fever (allergic rhinitis). This progression is called the " atopic march ."
Contact dermatitis
Contact dermatitis is a type of eczema that causes an itchy sensation on the skin due to direct contact with an allergen or irritant.
Dermatitis
Dermatitis is a general term referring to inflammation of the skin. The most common types of dermatitis are contact dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, nummular dermatitis, and atopic dermatitis.
Dyshidrotic eczema
Dyshidrotic eczema, also called vesicular eczema, hand-and-foot eczema, palmoplantar or acrovesileus eczema, is a form of eczema that causes blisters on the hands and feet that appear and disappear over long periods of time.
Eczema
Eczema is an umbrella term that refers to dry, itchy, and flaky skin. There are seven types of eczema.
Products for skin prone to eczema:
Fissures (cracks/cracks)
Skin fissures are cracks or tears in the skin. They most commonly occur on dry or calloused areas of the skin, such as the heels or palms.
Histamine
Histamines are compounds released by cells in response to injury or an allergic/inflammatory response [EM1] .
Lichenification
Lichenification is the term used for skin that becomes leathery and thick. This process can occur due to excessive scratching or rubbing. The area of skin may also become bumpier, darker, or harder than the surrounding skin.
Nummular eczema
Nummular eczema is a form of eczema that causes an itchy, circular rash. This can mimic psoriasis, ringworm, or even other forms of eczema. It most commonly appears on the trunk, arms, legs, and hands.
Occupational dermatitis
Occupational dermatitis is a form of contact dermatitis that occurs when you come into contact with an irritating chemical in your workplace.
Perioral dermatitis
Perioral dermatitis is an inflammation around the mouth. It can be triggered by topical or inhaled steroids and by strong moisturizers and cosmetics. It appears as a rash and can be scaly or cause bumps that are often mistaken for acne.
Pruritus
Itching is also called simply "itch." It produces an irritating sensation that causes discomfort and an urge to scratch the skin.
Seborrheic dermatitis
Seborrheic dermatitis, also known as dandruff, is a skin condition that causes flaky, crusty, red patches of skin on oily areas of the body. It is most commonly found on the face, nose, eyebrows, ears, eyelids, armpits, and especially the scalp. In infants, this is known as cradle cap or cradle cap.
Hypostatic eczema (stasis dermatitis)
Hypostatic eczema is a form of eczema caused by poor circulation in the lower legs. Valves in the veins have weakened and leak fluid, causing water and blood cells to accumulate in the legs. This is also called gravitational dermatitis, venous eczema, or venous stasis dermatitis.
Weeping eczema
Have you ever noticed a clear or straw-colored fluid coming from your eczema? This is called "wet eczema." When the fluid dries, it causes a yellow or orange crust to form on your skin. Wet eczema can indicate that your eczema has become infected. This can also occur when you have fluid-filled blisters.
Acne
Acne vulgaris
Acne vulgaris is the official term for what you probably consider the "standard" or "common" form of acne. Acne vulgaris causes pimples caused by oil, bacteria, and other impurities that clog your skin's pores. Hormonal fluctuations are one of the main culprits of acne vulgaris, which is why it most commonly occurs during puberty.
Products for acne-prone skin:
Atrophic scars
Atrophic scars, also called acne scars (pits), are indented spots on the skin caused by acne. When this type of scarring develops, it indicates that the skin was unable to regenerate tissue, meaning the skin has healed beneath the normal tissue layer.
Blackheads (black dots)
Unlike whiteheads, which are closed, clogged pores, blackheads are open pores or hair follicles clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria. As the name suggests, they appear on the skin as small black dots in your pores.
Comedones
The term "comedones" is the technical term for both blackheads and whiteheads. Generally, comedones are small white, dark, or flesh-colored bumps.
Cystic acne
Cystic acne is a form of inflammatory acne. It causes pus-filled pimples that form deep beneath the skin's surface. This form of acne is often more painful than acne vulgaris.
Cysts
A cyst is a fluid-filled growth that can be very painful. Cysts are usually associated with cystic acne, one of the more difficult forms of acne to treat.
Hormonal acne
Hormonal acne can appear as blackheads, whiteheads, or, more commonly, painful cysts. Hormonal acne is caused by an overproduction of sebum (oil) due to hormonal fluctuations. Hormonal acne often appears on the chin and jawline, but can occur anywhere.
Purging
Skin purging causes pimples due to a reaction to active ingredients in a new skin care product that increases the skin's cell renewal rate.
Pimples
Pustules are a type of pimple. These are bumps that contain pus toward the surface.
Sebum (sebum)
Sebum (sebum) is often referred to as "oil"; it's the fatty substance secreted by your sebaceous glands. Excess sebum can lead to clogged pores and acne.
White dots
Whiteheads develop when oil, dead skin cells, or bacteria clog skin pores or hair follicles. Whiteheads are closed pores that contain these impurities. They appear as pus-filled bumps just below the skin's surface.
Rosacea
Acne rosacea
Acne rosacea is another name for papulopustular rosacea. You may hear this term less often because it can often be confused with the separate skin condition acne, as both skin conditions involve pimples.
Learn more about rosacea:
Products for rosacea-prone skin:
Broken capillaries
Capillaries are blood vessels responsible for blood circulation in the face. They are connected to larger veins and arteries. If these blood vessels are damaged, they become visible through the skin and are considered "broken capillaries."
Erythema
Erythema is redness on the skin's surface caused by dilation of blood capillaries due to inflammation or injury. This can occur in patches of skin or over a larger area. Erythema can occur in all skin types, but it can be more difficult for doctors to detect in darker skin.
Erythemato-telangiectatic rosacea (ETR)
ETR is the type of rosacea most people are familiar with. It causes flushing on the nose and cheeks, but if left untreated, it can also appear on the forehead, scalp, chin, and neck.
Blushing
Blushing, also called facial flushing or redness, refers to the reddening of the skin. This can be caused by a skin condition such as rosacea, hot weather, exercise, spicy foods, or even nervousness.
Ocular rosacea
Ocular rosacea causes inflammation and redness around the eyes and eyelids. It can also cause bumps, swelling, and redness in the eyes, leading to a burning sensation and watering.
Learn more about ocular rosacea:
Papulopustular rosacea
This type of rosacea, also called "acne rosacea," causes not only redness and visible blood vessels, but also papules and pustules. These develop deep within the skin, making them difficult to remove. These bumps can also be accompanied by abnormally oily or dry patches of skin.
Phymatous rosacea
Phymatous rosacea is named after its main symptom: phyma, or thickening of the skin. This most commonly occurs on or around the nose and begins as redness and visible blood vessels, progressing to thickening of the skin. It can lead to rhinophyma (see below).
Rhinophyma
Rhinophyma causes an enlarged nose that can often appear red, convex, and bumpy. This can occur as a result of untreated phymatous rosacea.
